Day One: 22 Aug. 2002

Plane from Dulles to DeGaulle. Very little sleep. There is a dog on the plane, which we deduce from the constant barking all the way across the Atlantic. Between naps, Kathryn watches parts of Spiderman and The Importance of Being Earnest on her little TV, and I am entranced by the map showing our progress: up over Boston and New York, Maine, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, over towards the southern tip of Ireland, through the English Channel, over Normandy and towards Paris. This somewhat assuages my usual airplane feeling that I have disappeared into the ether and will reappear somewhere else without any real transition. We are numb and achy when we land, at 11:15am, in sunny Paris.

Well, not really Paris. The Charles De Gaulle airport is in Roissy, so we still have to get to Paris. We take the shuttle to the train station, for the RER into Paris. I almost break my knee going through the turnstyle with huge bags. My first real encounter with a French person is when a nice black guy in sunglasses stoops over my sprawled body and says "Ça va? Okay?" I thank him, find my glasses, and Kathryn helps me to my feet. We take the RER to the Chatelet/Les Halles station, which turns out to be labyrinthine and foul-smelling.

Up to the surface, and we're standing near a beautiful fountain, facing which direction? That must be the Seine over there. Carry bags down Quai de la Megisserie, past shoppers browsing (some of them very slowly) for plants and pets. Must pack lighter next trip.

Turned right after the Samaritaine Department Store, Left down Rue Pretres Saint Germain L'Auxerois to our hotel. Room is ready. Up a tiny, wallpapered elevator to 2nd floor, and room #24. Window opens onto side of Saint Germain L'Auxerois church, gargoyles, stained glass. We learn how to operate the shower.

We go on a boat ride - Vedettes du Pont Neuf - which starts on West tip of Ile de la Cite and goes West to the tour Eiffel and East back around Ile de St. Louis. Ooh. Ahh. K takes little catnap on my shoulder on the Eastern ride. She's feeling headachy. Back to hotel, where Kathryn requests that I bring her a Croque Monssieur in bed. I ask at front desk, they direct me to market in the basement of Samaritaine Homme. I bring her Feuillettes avec Jambon et fromage - our first French food.

We take a short nap - the street is very noisy. Then we start thinking about dinner reservations. We wander North to the Rue de Prouvaire, and eat at Le Gros Minet. Decent food, great atmosphere. We sit at an outside table, with a splendid view of the Eglise St. Eustache. Afterwards, we wander towards the church - the sun has set, and the gardens and the sculpture of the grande tete are lit up. We walk around the restaurants and governement buildings nearby (I particularly like the huge dome of the Bourse de Commerce), coming back down the Rue de Louvre. The "back door" of the Louvre is very dim and deserted-looking, but to our left is the beautifully lit facade of St. Germain L'Auxerois, "our" church. At the door of our hotel we decide to just keep going. "South to Shakespeare & Co.!"

We crossed the Pont Neuf, Oohing at the Eiffel Tower's searchlight and then Ahhing at the huge honey-colored moon in the east. Wow! We walked on past Ile de la Cite to the Left bank, and down into the Quartier Latin. Narrow, colorful, crowded, festive. Lots of Greek restaurants. A guy on the sidewalk played Leyende on his guitar, and I dropped him a coin. We walk through Place St-Michel and wonder if its incredible fountain is even in our guidebooks - how could anyone even list all the beautiful things in Paris? We looked for Shakespeare & Co., but ran out of Rue de la Bucherie before we found it. Hm. Headed back across Pont au Double, in front of Notre Dame, which appears to be a popular hangout at night - there was a crowd watching rollerblading buskers. Back to the hotel, only to find that it our room has but one bathroom. We slept well.

On to Day Two